Review: Uncle Vinny knows pizza

The Coliseum Supreme Pizza from Uncle Vinny's Pizza at 1560 S. Stanford Way in Sparks. (Credit: Marilyn Newton / RGJ)

Upon entering, you hear the murmur of cooks' voices in the kitchen baking pizza, cheers from patrons sitting at the bar over beers and wings, chatter from families enjoying a pizza and employees greeting customers as they enter the parlor.

Uncle Vinny's Pizza in Sparks is the quintessential pizza parlor, complete with video games in the back, a salad bar, a jukebox, beer signs on the wall and a full bar.

Sunday football airs on a large-screen televisions — of which there are many — so many, in fact, that my companion forgets about the food to check the screen.

All sorts for all occasions

Uncle Vinny's is a fun, low-key spot to spend the early hours of the evening. High-boy tables tower over their shorter counterparts, and the walls are painted in soothing shades of chocolate and tan.

The clientele is mixed — couples, pairs of men and families all visit Uncle Vinny's. Pitchers of beer — there are nine on draft -- are two-for-one during happy hour.

Buffalo wings are fiery, despite being ordered at medium. This is fine with me — the hotter the better. They are well-sauced and accompanied by ranch dressing and carrot and celery sticks.

The salad bar is above par. Salad items are crisp and cold and include chopped iceberg lettuce, chopped bacon, cheese, fresh dressings and additional items like pasta salad, cole slaw and potato salad.

There are no kiddie messes here — the bar is clean and tidy.

Pizzas are delicious. Choose from pan or thin crust and a garlic sauce or traditional marinara.

Specialties

The DaVinci pizza comes topped with Fontanini sausage, crisp bacon, ham, mushrooms, red onion and four cheeses -- jack, mozzarella, provolone and cheddar — lightly sauced with marinara.

The volume of toppings weighs down the slice but the thin crust still supports the cheesy conglomeration. The DaVinci is delicious -- you hope a menu item named after the famed artist would be -- and leaves me longing for another slice.

Its antithesis is the Tuscan chicken supreme, which comprises mostly vegetables. Layered on top of the garlic sauce lie mushrooms, artichoke hearts, spinach, red onions, cheese and chunks of chicken.

The Tuscan is more mildly flavored but just as delicious as the DaVinci. The garlic sauce complements the vegetable toppings.

The Margherita pizza — spelled "Margharita" on the menu — is less successful. Buffalo mozzarella, sliced Roma tomatoes, fresh basil and marinara top the pie.

The basil is cooked, which makes it crisp and takes away its sweetness, and I wish the marinara sauce had taken a holiday -- a slight drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and chopped garlic is what this pie needs for perfection.

An enormous calzone is the star of the evening. Stuff if with whatever items you choose.

My companion and I pick fresh jalapeños, mushrooms, roasted garlic, pepperoni, marinara sauce and cheese in a crisp, golden crust. The spicy jalapeños balance the unctuous cheeses, and the calzone is too much for one person to finish, although you might try because it's so satisfying.

Service shines

The restaurant also serves breakfast — all day! — and menu items include omelets, biscuits and gravy, French toast, Belgian waffles and egg dishes.

Service at Uncle Vinny's is great. It's informal — customers order at the counter — but employees are accommodating and friendly. If they're not sure about something they'll ask the chef, and they are quick to take care of customers' needs.

Uncle Vinny's prices are extremely affordable — the calzones starts at $6.

With the flowing beer, spicy wings and hot pizza, Uncle Vinny's is a fun neighborhood spot to catch the game.

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