Review: La Vecchia an Italian jewel of Reno

Panna cotta, warmly flavorful and topped with caramel, contains flecks of vanilla bean. (Credit: Tim Dunn / RGJ)

Despite recent, sweltering, 90-degree days, the evenings have cooled, and the first day of fall arrived on Sept. 22.

Say good-bye to heirloom tomatoes, bright salads and strappy summer sandals and hello to high-heeled boots and heartier fare like butternut squash, spaghetti Bolognese and lasagna.

La Vecchia Ristorante, with its housemade pastas and other delicious Italian fare, is a fine place to move into the new season.

The restaurant -- blink and you'll miss it driving south on South Virginia Street — offers unobtrusive décor that nevertheless feels a little outdated. Nondescript paintings hang on the wall, and a giant vase holding orchids and tulips occupies a table in the center of the dining room.

During the day, frosted-glass windows present themselves to diners in the main room; at night, the windows are covered, seemingly haphazardly, with flowered shades a bit askew. Still, track lighting and low-hanging lamps give La Vecchia a romantic glow at night.

Starting strong

Finocchio e tonno crudo features pan-seared tuna with shaved fennel, mixed greens, pickled red onions, shaved parmesan and a bright vinaigrette. The fennel spikes the mild tuna with a whisper of licorice.

Carpaccio classico comprises paper-thin slices of raw filet mignon topped with capers providing a burst of brininess and arugula, shaved parmesan, lemon juice and olive oil.

Fritto misto is a collection of deep-fried morsels — shrimp, calamari, zucchini and artichoke hearts -- served with what the menu describes as a spicy tomato basil sauce. Calamari, both rings and tentacles, are toothsome and firm without being rubbery. Artichoke hearts sport nicely breaded exteriors, as do all the morsels. Zucchini showcase the end of summer produce.

I don't detect much heat in the tomato basil sauce, but it still has a nice flavor profile, which is enlivened with a few squirts of fresh lemon juice.

Salad days

Insalate di Cesare is a delicious classic Caesar. Hearts of romaine are chopped and cloaked in garlicky dressing. Shavings of fresh parmesan and buttery, herb-flecked croutons complete the dish. The salad is dressed perfectly. I can't decide which bites I like better, those with just salad, showcasing the flavorful dressing, or those with crunchy croutons.

Mozzarella Caprese offers slices of ruby-red tomatoes layered with fresh mozzarella, sprinkled with ribbons of fresh basil and drizzled with balsamic vinegar. Arugula dressed in balsamic vinaigrette and olive oil completes the dish.

Authentically dressed

Rigatoni arrabbiata delivers chubby housemade pasta, perfectly cooked to al dente, and a spicy pomodoro sauce sprinkled with fresh parmesan. The rigatoni are dressed — in the real Italian way — with a proper amount of sauce that doesn't drown the pasta. The pomodoro offers an initial whisper of heat that grows with each bite.

Ravioli di carne alla Bolognese are classics stuffed with various meats and parmesan and topped with Bolognese. The stuffing is rich and satisfying — veal stands out — but the sauce needs more seasoning. A dash of salt and sprinkle of red pepper, perhaps?

Rigatoni con pancetta e fagioli feature more of those housemade rigatoni swirled with smoked mozzarella cheese and studded with pancetta, caramelized red onions, garlic and white Italian beans. This dish is proof that less is more -- each forkful announces the various ingredients.

Pillowy standout

On one visit, the pesce del giorno — fish of the day — is swordfish topped with chopped tomatoes and pesto and served with fingerling potatoes, zucchini, yellow squash, red bell peppers and carrots. The fish alone isn't very exciting and has a slight fishy taste, but the pesto dresses it up like pearls do an outfit.

Ravioli Fiorentina is the restaurant's standout dish. Pillowy, housemade spinach ravioli are filled with ricotta-spinach mixture and draped with sauce in which crisp sage leaves add delicate crunch and brown butter provides richness. The ravioli, like all the dishes at La Vecchia, are thoughtfully plated and portioned generously.

Reno jewel

Desserts are inconsistent. On one visit, ricotta cheesecake with blackberries is uninspired. The cheesecake has an amaretti crust, which is delicious, but the filling is too dense — not what I expect from ricotta cheesecake. And the blackberries are hard in some places.

Panna cotta is more successful. The jiggly custard is topped with a delicate caramel sauce. A strawberry garnishes the plate. The panna cotta has the tell-tale sign of having been made with vanilla bean — tiny black specks dot the custard. The dessert has a warm vanilla flavor, with caramel adding just a touch of richness.

Service at La Vecchia is outstanding. Water glasses are filled expeditiously, and the waitstaff keeps the pace of the meal going. Servers describe specials knowledgeably and show enthusiasm for the food they serve.

La Vecchia is a jewel of the Reno dining scene. With its classic dishes and fantastic service, it's become one of my new Italian favorites.

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