Review: Jia's Wok tasty and quick

A combination plate at Jia's Wok consists of kung pao chicken, stir-fried vegetables, chow mein and fried rice. (Credit: Johnathan L. Wright)

Many and varied are the "promises" of typical Chinese fast food: greasy egg rolls, gluey coils of lo mein, stir-frys more produce than protein, and potstickers with edges sufficiently dry and ragged to maim the tongue.

So you'll understand, I hope, my year's worth of avoiding Jia's Wok on East Plumb Lane because the tag line on the restaurant's sign reads "Chinese fast food."

But recently, circumstances situate me in the neighborhood of Jia's Wok — and hunger and a tight schedule compel me to enter. Inside, I find food better than expected, and a look and service far better than expected.

Even within a quick-serve context, the Chinese family owners seem to want their restaurant to be more than just another egg roll joint.

Service excels

Dragons and phoenix cavort in pairs across stained glass panels set in the ceiling; glass panels etched with koi partition the storefront dining room. Chinese poems carved in wood decorate one wall. A cluster of fat, faux red chilis, a bit of brightening seen all over China, hangs above the order counter.

Tables, however, could use more frequent wiping.

Behind the counter, a young man (he can't be more than 19 or 20) mounds combination plates with general's chicken, Mongolian beef, barbecued pork, fried rice and chow mein (combination plates consisting of two items plus fried rice and noodles start at only $5.39).

The young man is exceedingly friendly; doesn't stint on the portions; keeps the line moving (and works the register), even when it's busy; and correctly pronounces siu mai. He's a refreshing change from the offhand or sullen types who staff many counter-service places, especially in downtown Reno.

Timing is key

Jia's Wok being a quick-service spot, the food is freshest when business is steady, and pans must be frequently refilled. On one visit, noodles and fried rice are steaming straight from the wok. On another, they're lukewarm because they've been sitting.

The same is true of salt-and-pepper shrimp; when they're cool, they're a little mushy. Either way, though, you receive a pile of nicely sized shrimp.

You wouldn't think siu mai would lend themselves to quick-service; dim sum are famously delicate and have half-lives usually measured in minutes. From the line, siu mai aren't as tightly constructed as dim sum steamed to order, but they deliver decent pork flavor and sport the requisite green and orange dots from a pea and a mite of carrot.

When I request siu mai as a separate course, not as part of a combo plate, they're sturdier, and an order of 14 is only $5.49. That's a generous amount for the price.

Welcome heat

Jia's Wok serves a diverse clientele, with Spanish speaking customers heavily represented on my visits. During one evening rush, a happy burble of English, Spanish and Chinese emerges as crew and customers cook, discuss and order, as the case may be.

Heat isn't muted at Jia's Wok to suit timid palates.

A dipping sauce for dim sum? It's made from chili oil and hot. Kung pao chicken? That's appropriately hot, too, and studded with tender chicken and chopped red chilis. Spicy pork, though too oily, lives up to its name and features several whole red chilis mixed in with sliced red and green bell pepper.

Jia's Wok doesn't offer the most nuanced or deeply authentic Chinese food, but then again, it's not trying to. But if you're in the neighborhood or it's on a frequently traveled route and you want a quick, solid, affordable Chinese meal, do stop in.

For me, that beats a fast food burger any day.

Combination plates: 

• $5.39 for two items plus fried rice and chow mein
• $6.99 for three items plus fried rice and chow mein
• $8.49 for four items plus fried rice and chow mein

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