Review: Freeman's hot dogs have new tricks

Freeman's Natural Hotdogs

Vegetarian. Vegan. Yawn (sometimes). Vegetarian dishes can be fresh and delicious — Caprese salad, any pasta sprinkled with parmesan, Cajun-style rice and beans.

But vegan?

Vegan usually puts me off. Stir-fried tofu, properly prepared, is delicious. Black-bean burgers are palatable. But "meatless" meat items can be tricky. I've tasted horrid seitan — made by my veggie-loving sister — and soggy marinated tofu masquerading as a "burger."
So, when Freeman's Natural Hotdogs, which serves vegan and organic dogs, opened in Reno, it became a culinary mountain to climb.

Color code

Freeman's is located on an ever-gentrifying stretch of California Avenue, right next to the upscale shoe boutique aptly named Shoe, between Forest and South Virginia streets, near the Biggest Little City Club.

The storefront space is cheery and bright, with primary-colored plastic chairs that look as if they were inspired by those in kindergarten classes of yesteryear.

A long counter with barstools runs the length of the place, and there are a handful of tables. The walls are adorned with a row of framed Campbell's soup prints, each with a different framing color — a splash of cobalt here, scarlet there.

Order at the counter from friendly and accommodating Noël Judal, who co-owns the business with her husband, Jason Freeman.

The menu offers mainly dogs — organic, nitrate- and hormone-free, vegetarian — along with a smattering of other items like a delicious garden salad, nachos, three-bean chili and Asian slaw.

(Find other hot dog restaurants around Reno)

Vegan variety

The fontina, spinach and chicken sausage comes on a heartily textured sourdough wheat bun made locally at House of Bread. The sausage offers vibrant splashes of green from the spinach and mild, nutty flavor from the fontina.

Judal suggests a topping of feta, chopped tomatoes and pesto aïoli. The chicken sausage looks small next to the heftier vegan sausages, which is surprising.

The wholly dog has a vegan Italian sausage topped with chopped tomatoes, hummus and lemon tahini. The bun of choice here is onion poppyseed. The topping is goopy, and it's impossible to take a bite without making a mess.

This vegan dog also is a bit mushy and lacking in flavor, and it doesn't pop when you bite into it. I miss the heat and sizzle of real Italian sausage.

Vegan chipotle sausage is more successful. The special one day features this dog topped with black bean salsa, avocado, corn and spicy chipotle lime aïoli. The sausage has sufficient heat, and although it still lacks that real sausage texture, the flavor delivers.

Heat and crunch

Nachos comprise rustic tortilla triangles fried to crispness, zingy turkey chili, melted Monterey Jack cheese, chunky housemade salsa, chopped pickled jalapeños and a drizzle of that delicious chipotle lime aïoli.

The nachos are spi-cy! The marriage of crunchy chips and robust toppings is delicious. There's no lack of flavor here. These nachos hit the spot.

A large mixed green salad has organic mixed greens, carrot slivers, chopped tomatoes and roasted red peppers, shredded cabbage, sunflower seeds, avocado slices and blue cheese crumbles.

Seeds and cabbage give the salad crunch, and delicate miso-sesame dressing offers sweet and citrus without being cloying.

Service is quick and friendly. My party and I order a huge mess of food, and Freeman's employees assemble it quickly. They even walk around during downtime to make sure patrons are enjoying their lunch.

I won't be giving up real Italian sausage any day soon, but it's nice to know that diners can get an adequate substitute for Wilbur at Freeman's. And, meat and veggie lovers alike would be crazy not to love the spicy nachos.

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