This lovely restaurant occupies a restored 20th century cottage. In its sleek-meets-traditional dining room, diners are attended to by servers so well timed they seem almost invisible. The menu is country French meets seasonal California. Chef Natalie Sellers and general manager Carol Wilson are partners in 4th St., and they spent many years in San Francisco restaurants before moving to Reno. Sellers was one of the first area chefs to source and promote local, sustainable, organic ingredients that appear in dishes like Cabernet-braised Niman Ranch beef short ribs, penne rigate tossed with small-farm vegetables and grana padano, and seared Maine sea scallops served over roasted corn, pancetta and radicchio risotto. Wilson selects many unusual, small-production wines for 4th St.'s list, one of the best in town. The restaurant also has a courtyard for warm-weather dining.

See more: Northwest restaurants, American regional restaurants, French restaurants